Mark Mathews surfs biggest barrel ever
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Bra boy scores his heaviest wave ever 20km off coast of Western Australia.
You can check out the video of the 26-year-old big wave surfer from Maroubra, Sydney conquering this behemoth on O'Neill TV. Unimpressive it ain't!
"It had been really slow all day and I hadn't had any good ones," said Mark of the experience. "Then this mountain came roaring out from the horizon, I got goose bumps all over as soon as I saw it."
"Big barrels like that feel like they are alive. They suck all the air inside. That's what surfers mean when they say they felt the wave take a breath. You feel like you're surrounded by the whole ocean. The air has nowhere left to go and just gets spat out into the channel, taking you with it. This is the feeling that keeps coming back over and over and over again."
Check out the Mark Mathews feature in HUCK#015, out now.
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Mark Mathews surfs biggest barrel ever (text) by HUCK HQ is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.
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